PRINT: Rock Climb Matzoland, Red Rocks

Matzoland

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 27 votes
FA: Dan McQuade 1999
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velv… > Whiskey Peak > N Face

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

A quality alternative to the first pitch of Ixtlan. Start 20 feet right of Ixtlan, following 6 bolts through a tricky/insecure left-facing corner, two small roofs, and a thin final section up then traversing left to the Ixtlan pitch 1 anchor.

Location

Other side of the bush.

Protection

Bolts, optional smallish placement before the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

An awkward start leads to increasingly fun climbing past the first bolt. Perfect combination to do with Ixtlan.

Dan Ressler on his redpoint of Matzoland.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT

5.12a

This route is rad! Interesting climbing! One of the key crimps near the top is about ready to break. It's cracked and flexes quite a bit as of 5/15. A little glue could totally save the hold, but it would probably go and just be a touch harder without it. May 26, 2015

Jeff Edge
Bend, OR

Death block alert!!! The huge block after the 4th(?) bolt is going to fall on whoever touches it next! It rocks from the top about 4 inches. I drew 3 big X's on it. It's easily 100+ lbs and would definitely kill you and/or your belayer.

Also on my way up I pulled off a big block right around the 3rd bolt that was a pretty important hold. It came off when I barely touched it. Upon inspection, it appears to have been held on by some lichen or something. You can see it sitting at the base. Nov 25, 2015

yann gauthier
val david

Did it on top rope all the move goes but yes the big block with the 3 big X on is moving. I try to pull it off but it will need a crowbar. super dangerous if it fall ! dont belay someone in lead on that route until the bloc is gone.
Super nice route :) Nov 28, 2015

Pat Cheng
Portland, OR

ATTENTION: death blocks!!!! I pulled off a synthesizer-shaped death block off the second mini roof. Previously, the second mini roof had a crimp deep inside the dihedral and a very thin undercling 2 feet to the left. I essentially chopped off the bottom 6 inches of the roof. The deep crimp is now gone but it's relatively easy to finger jam. The thin undercling has gotten wider and has moved towards the dihedral about 6 inches. Overall I think it's still the same grade but who the fuck knows in this canyon.

Thankfully I was on TR and my belayer was beneath Ixtlan. I hope this note keeps someone safe. I did this route on a whim and while I enjoy fight-or-flight endorphins, that was a bit much. So uhhhh belay from off to the side everybody.

Other than the choss I found the moves extremely unique with sustained cruxes through the bottom 2/3 and thin technical face climbing for the rest of it. The bottom 2/3 had only two downpulls, the rest of it was weird body positions and precarious, technical smearing. Thought it was super fun. Stout lead/onsight. Highly suggest, just be careful friends! Mar 14, 2022