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Routes in Gold Wall

After the Goldrush S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Austin loves dragons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cruise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Faster Than Rust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freescale Semiconductor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crush S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pot Of Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red To Riches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rust Never Sleeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Kissed T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweetie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Watchtower, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tai DeVore
Page Views: 116 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Chinchen on May 1, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The left-most climb on the Gold Wall.

Climb up a short crack and work right and up to the top of the red wall. A reachy crux is harder for short folks. Finish on a nice layback and touchy slab.

Location

This is the furthest left route on the Gold Wall.

Protection

6 Bolts

Photos

The position of the first bolt tries to force you into staying more in the crack/seam. Done this way the crux is at the first bolt. A more logical start would be to move a bit right to the good holds. Unfortunately the first bolt is in a poor location when going this way. If starting a bit right the crux is the high step shown in Jason's picture 3/4 of the way up the route at 11b/c. 3 out of 5 stars to me. Apr 24, 2014
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
First bolt seemed a little too left. Was able to start on obvious crimpers to the right and step into the finger crack. A couple of fun cruxes as noted above. Pretty neat rock on this one. Check out the crystal blob below the anchors too. Apr 24, 2014
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.11d
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.11d
Fun climb - beautiful rock, great crux moves! Not sustained for the grade and kind of short so I can't give it 3 stars. Requires a sense of style to not go far right to bypass the crux high step move. Taking gear for the upper crack isn't worth the trouble. May 22, 2011