Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Siren

Shake Wait T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Josh Thompson and Andrew Gram April 2011
Page Views: 1,827 total, 23/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch #1: Start with a big undercut move to reach a good jam and feet. Then follow the crack system up and right. Climb through the crux corner and mantle onto a ledge. The ledge is a Basalt layer and takes some interesting movement to move above. Near the top climb an undercut, wide crack through brown limestone. Some really cool face holds on the right ease the difficulty. Finish on a big brown ledge at 2 good(1/2inch) bolts. 5.10+.

Pitch #2: Continue up the line left of the belay. There are 2 ledges mid pitch, getting onto and above them present some cool challenges. Near the top of the pitch climb through a short squeeze chimney/OW. Scramble the remaining distance into the notch and belay at 3 good bolts. 5.9.

Pitch #3: Free Climb up and left on a green limestone band. Traverse left on top of the limestone band that creates a ledge. Clip a protection bolt before turning the corner of the tower. Stand up high and clip the first of 3 bolts forming a bolt ladder out the roof/bulge. When the bolts end you will find a crack that begins medium sized and gets thinner. Find 2 fixed pitons very close together, then free climb up onto a big ledge. Locate gear on the ledge...2 small cams in horizontal pockets. Free climb left off the ledge rapping around the total opposite side of the tower from where you started. Do some easy moves to the summit and head back to the other side(flipping the rope around as you go) to the anchor. 5.9 A2.

To descend rappel the route. Start by rapping off the north side to the shoulder and then swinging into the top of pitch 2(exciting but straight forward). Then rap pitch 2. Then rap to climbers right of pitch 1. Its all very obvious.

Location

The obvious line on the eastern side of the tower.

Protection

1 set Micro Nuts
1 set Nuts
2 sets cams Green Alien through #3 Camalot
1 each 4,5,and 6 camalot.
1 70M rope.

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+ A2 R
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10+ A2 R
The free climbing near the top is pretty runout. Not a bad idea to bring a screamer for the final small cams since it would be very bad if they blew. Jugging the last pitch was about the airiest thing i've ever done on a three pitch route.

I was really surprised about how good the route ended up being. Go do it if you want an adventure! Apr 29, 2011
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Ok Comments to avoid jamming up the description.

This was a super fun and adventurous route.
The rock quality is quite good. Alot better than many other "classic" routes I've done in the desert.
The route name is clearly a play on words. While the rock quality is good, there were many big loose rocks/blocks perch on ledges and edges. Andy would hide under overhangs "SHAKE and WAIT" while I'd drop the bombs. Plus the Shake weight is funny.

All anchors are absolutely bomber with at least two 1/2X3.5" Powers bolts.
Lead bolts are 3/8's.

This climb will easily go clean, there's no need to bring a hammer. With the bolts in place it would likely be easy to do without aiders...just clip and tram the rope.

This climb will also go free. I'd guess in the 5.11+ to 5.12- range. Only about 15ft were aided.

Andrew and I disagree about and "R" rating. I lend the pitch and feel that if you are going to do a climb with a 5.10+ rating, you better be able to do some NBD 5.8 above gear a ways.

josh Apr 29, 2011