Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in The Siren
|Shake Wait T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Josh Thompson and Andrew Gram April 2011|
|Page Views:||1,827 total, 23/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Apr 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionPitch #1: Start with a big undercut move to reach a good jam and feet. Then follow the crack system up and right. Climb through the crux corner and mantle onto a ledge. The ledge is a Basalt layer and takes some interesting movement to move above. Near the top climb an undercut, wide crack through brown limestone. Some really cool face holds on the right ease the difficulty. Finish on a big brown ledge at 2 good(1/2inch) bolts. 5.10+.
Pitch #2: Continue up the line left of the belay. There are 2 ledges mid pitch, getting onto and above them present some cool challenges. Near the top of the pitch climb through a short squeeze chimney/OW. Scramble the remaining distance into the notch and belay at 3 good bolts. 5.9.
Pitch #3: Free Climb up and left on a green limestone band. Traverse left on top of the limestone band that creates a ledge. Clip a protection bolt before turning the corner of the tower. Stand up high and clip the first of 3 bolts forming a bolt ladder out the roof/bulge. When the bolts end you will find a crack that begins medium sized and gets thinner. Find 2 fixed pitons very close together, then free climb up onto a big ledge. Locate gear on the ledge...2 small cams in horizontal pockets. Free climb left off the ledge rapping around the total opposite side of the tower from where you started. Do some easy moves to the summit and head back to the other side(flipping the rope around as you go) to the anchor. 5.9 A2.
To descend rappel the route. Start by rapping off the north side to the shoulder and then swinging into the top of pitch 2(exciting but straight forward). Then rap pitch 2. Then rap to climbers right of pitch 1. Its all very obvious.