PRINT: Rock Climb Love Your Enemies, Golden

Love Your Enemies

5.12a/b, Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 68 votes
FA: Brian Kimball
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > New River Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.

Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM

Description

Climb 3 bolts up the slab, then traverse left and upward to join and finish on Public Enemy.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sully headed into the crux on Love Your Enemies.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville

Nice work, Brian, thanks for all your hard work at The New River Area, it's awesome! Can't wait to get on it! Apr 28, 2011

Keith H. North
Englewood, CO

5.12b

I am with Brian, the route felt a little soft to me. It is very much my style though and with out a doubt the best 12b in the canyon.

It also makes a wonderful warm up for climbing on almost anything else at the wall. May 3, 2011

Keith H. North
Englewood, CO

5.12b

I have no clue, dude. Someone altered your bolt??? Jun 5, 2011

Wade

I did not retro bolt this route, a bolt was pulling out, so I added a extra one, I would have pulled it out, but it wouldn't come loose, I yellow tagged it, so no one would use it. By the description that Brian gave, this route is what I though was Public Enemy. Brian, you can leave the name, I like it. I'd say 12b or c?

wader Jun 22, 2011

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO

I did this route the same day after finishing Sonic last summer. I was amazed with how good the route was. A little airy and spooky which makes it super fun! It's got a great overhanging traverse on big jugs. The crux is at the very top when the jugs thin out and you have to do some big moves as the pump culminates. Amazing route, thanks for putting it up. This rivals the best 5.12b anywhere, with great climbing, great position on bullet hard beautiful stone. Do it! Jan 13, 2012

slim	[Hide Comment] Agree with Monty. I've seen this happen several times - the nut works its way loose over time and is just hanging on by a thread. Then it pops off when the rope is weighted. Oct 16, 2012

James

Can someone explain the anchors being gone on this route?
It looks like the anchor is gone and the route is extended, and I was wondering how hard the rest of the route is now? Mar 27, 2015

Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO

5.12-

This route follows two bolts up the slab and then cuts left onto the face. The third bolt on the slab has been stripped of its hanger, but it isn't needed (too high, increased drag). Then follow four bolts left and up to a one bolt anchor with a chain draw in the roof. Nov 5, 2015

Kelley C
Lakewood, CO

I parked at the New River Wall today to go High Wire. There were two signs posted on the road clearly stating the areas and dates of closure, with the New River Wall being one of the areas closed to climbing until July 31 due to raptor nesting. However, there was a guy working this route (or it could have been Public Enemy he was one but can't be sure cuz I've never climbed on this wall) being belayed by some chick. Mar 12, 2016

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12a

Kch16, New River Wall and the trail to it are both open. Just be sure to stay in the US Route 6 corridor as you approach. With a close look at the sign, you can see the corridor that is still open.
From JeffCo website jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… "another area of Clear Creek Canyon Park, near Tunnel 2, is closed to all public use uphill of the U.S. Route 6 corridor from February 1 through July 31 to protect an active golden eagle nesting territory. This closure encompasses the following rock climbing sites: Highlander, Evil Area, and Tetanus Garden."

Thanks to the rangers for keeping the corridor and New River Wall open! Mar 16, 2016

Michael Hauck

5.12a/b

Lead this route on gear yesterday, was really fun with thinner gear than you would expect. I used BD #1, 2, 0.4, and green, red, and yellow C3s! Mar 23, 2016

ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad

How many draws do you clip to the end of this route? Do you just finish at a single draw when you hit Public Enemy? It seemed amazing except for not knowing where people are climbing to to call it 12b. I climbed up the slab for two clips with super long draws then went left one draw past Public Enemy. Then it looked like one more draw which I assume would be the 13c Enjoy Your Youth. What I did seemed super high stars but felt maybe 12a not 12b. Any thoughts??? Reminded me of Orangahang at Rumney!!! but way easier. Nov 9, 2016