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Routes in Second Buttress

Ball and Chain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Captain Ging S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Overhang S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flies on S**t S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flying Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Cling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 10 T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus De Milo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Venus Fly Trap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 293 total, 4/month
Shared By: ConorD on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I cling is just left after scrambling to boardwalk ledge. Start up the large left facing corner that heads up to a roof. Clip the bolt, pull the roof and then trend right up to gear belay.

Location

Route is located just left of venus fly trap and right of Ball and chain. Heads up left facing corner at the start of the boardwalk ledge.

Protection

singles to 2", stoppers, quickdraws, gear belay. top out and walk off to the right.

Photos

Harrison Schutt
Missoula, MT
  5.10c X
Harrison Schutt   Missoula, MT
  5.10c X
Would definitely stray away from this route.

I followed Andrew's lead up a semi-clean, confusing route. There is an old bolt placed high and left of the actual climb making it look like you should climb through the horizontal finger crack (looks really hard). After climbing down, right, and back up I nearly pulled a 400 lb flake onto myself because there are many mandatory moves on it (it shifted about 1.5 inches on me).

Andrew also commented on marginal placements and sketchy rock. Rope drag was heinous. May 25, 2017