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> Blood Wall
Transfusion
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1 from 2
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Routes in Blood Wall
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Bad Blood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V4-5 6B+ |
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Blood Meridian T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bloodbath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bush League T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack McMuffin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glass Half Full, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Impulse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Main Vein, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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OW Negative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+ |
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Seppuku T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slow Bleed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Transfusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Venipuncture T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bob Goodwin, Merlin Lawson 2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,024 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | smassey on Apr 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Another beautiful wide crack on the Blood Wall. Pitch 1 goes up a pleasant 5.9 chimney to a belay below the obvious chockstone. Pitch 2 exits the chockstone on the left, and goes up the corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor. After turning the lip, you'll see the rap anchor for the bottom pitch.
Location
Transfusion is the wide crack to the left of Seppuku. Follow the standard Blood Wall approach, but rather than cutting up towards Seppuku and OW Negative, stay low around the small buttress below them. Scramble up and left, across the large dead tree in the chasm, to the base of the crack.
Protection
I took the recommended rack for Seppuku, but took a wrong turn on the approach and decided to do this instead. In retrospect, I would bring doubles of 2-5 Camalot, singles to 6, 2 ropes. The rap anchors may need replacing, so bring at least one red tri-cam and some tat. It is also recommended that you set the knot on the top rap about 30' below the anchor...
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