Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 360 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bob Goodwin, Merlin Lawson 2006|
|Page Views:||397 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||smassey on Apr 27, 2011|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionAnother beautiful wide crack on the Blood Wall. Pitch 1 goes up a pleasant 5.9 chimney to a belay below the obvious chockstone. Pitch 2 exits the chockstone on the left, and goes up the corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor. After turning the lip, you'll see the rap anchor for the bottom pitch.
LocationTransfusion is the wide crack to the left of Seppuku. Follow the standard Blood Wall approach, but rather than cutting up towards Seppuku and OW Negative, stay low around the small buttress below them. Scramble up and left, across the large dead tree in the chasm, to the base of the crack.
ProtectionI took the recommended rack for Seppuku, but took a wrong turn on the approach and decided to do this instead. In retrospect, I would bring doubles of 2-5 Camalot, singles to 6, 2 ropes. The rap anchors may need replacing, so bring at least one red tri-cam and some tat. It is also recommended that you set the knot on the top rap about 30' below the anchor...
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