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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,032 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Apr 27, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Take the slabby face (crux) to the bolt 20 feet up. This leads to a nice finger crack that fits a blue TCU, then the route steepens as the holds get bigger. Clip a second bolt, stay close to the arete on your left and balance your way up to a two bolt anchor on a ledge with a tree

Location

Right of Comatose, right of Praying Mantis/ Beeline and the 5.8X route with the aluminum hanger up high, 15 feet left of Resurrection locate a bolt 20 feet up a slab to the right of a gully

Protection

Small Tcu's, up to 2", 2 bolts, bolted anchor, the route is 150 feet but you can rap to the gully with one rope

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Pretty sure this is named "Arete Ride" in the guidebook. 5.8

I didn't really like it. The rock down low has significant growth, and a crumbly weird "kitty litter" feel. Awkward high fist bolt that is too far right. I had a BAD BAD time trying to get up into the crack on the bulge. Got stuck way above my last piece, in a nasty little position. Awful, insecure slabby climbing with horrible gear. It was practically an epic for me. I fought through it and pulled the move, but it was sketchy and not fun or aesthetic at all.

I think the better line is Ressurection Ramp, unfortunately. Sorry Sean/Mike, I know you worked hard to develop this area! I just wanted to give my impression of for future climbers to read. Jul 15, 2016
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.8
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.8
Fun route with minimal gear. Testy/heady to the first bolt if you take a direct line. Easier climbing above to a small cam high in the crack; lower the rock is suspect. More fun climbing to and above a couple more small pieces. The climbing to the second bolt is outstanding, fun, easy, and quite run out. Instead of finishing up the arete, we finished at the Resurrection Ramp anchor. Dec 28, 2014