Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.5 from 2
FA: Josh Wharton and Steve Su
> CO Ice & Mixed
> RMNP - Mixed/Ice
> Glacier Gorge T…
> Loch Vale & uphill
I think this is the best mixed route I've done in the park. It has it all, techy, steep, shortish approach, you name it. It's also likely the most sustained, with a hard second pitch crux.
Difficulty on the middle portion of the route will vary greatly depending on the amount of ice, but I think it's alway climable. Spring probably yields the most ice.
Begin on The Sublime Buttress. After the first two pitches (cool frozen hummocks on P1, and very pumpy trad m-ing on P2), traverse a ledge left to join Tunnel Vision. Climb Tunnel Vision to the base of the tunnel pitch (2.5 pitches, M5ish), and move out right to the base of the big steep, left-facing system. Two pitches of engaging M6 to the top.
We rapped the route with two 60 meter ropes.
This begins on the summer rock route "Sublime Buttress
." Its location described elsewhere on Mtn Project.
A single set of stoppers, a single set of cams, with extra fingers to hands,and perhaps a screw or two.