Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Pabst Smear

5.10b, Trad, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 24 votes
FA: Tom McLeod - 1975
Idaho > W Idaho > Black Cliffs > W Car Body Canyon

Description

Technical and sustained palming, smearing, and stemming. Don't underestimate the finish, this route doesn't let up until you are at the anchor!

Apparently this route originally went on gear and was subsequently retro-bolted. Without the bolts the pro looked like it would be very thin and tricky! What a bold FA!

Location

The bolted line between the two obvious offwidths.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 rap hangers

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber on Pabpst smear (red), 10b
<br>
Stretch Armstrong (yellow), 11d
[Hide Photo] Climber on Pabpst smear (red), 10b Stretch Armstrong (yellow), 11d
Me on Pabst Smear. Chris took this pic from across the canyon.
[Hide Photo] Me on Pabst Smear. Chris took this pic from across the canyon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Super fun and sustained stemming that doesn't let up til the top. It's well protected once you make that first clip. Oct 14, 2013
Maurice Chaunders
boise, id
[Hide Comment] Like the man says...great stemming and nicely bolted. Or try it with wires and small gear. May 15, 2014
Eric Budd
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Very fun! My first lead climb!! This seems to be one of the better bolted climbs in the area. Save some gas for that last big move. May 26, 2017
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] Well bolted. I cowardly fiddled a couple of nuts in between some of the bolts. Probably unnecessary, but it gives one appreciation for how much more difficult it would have been on gear. Aug 9, 2017