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Robocop

5.8 PG13, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 24 votes
FA: Jeff Rhoads and Kate Ridgeway, April 1988
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - S Face
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb a slab and crack up to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney (#5 Camalot needed), to a technical face that leads to a slab with four bolts. Two-bolt anchor. Descent is a short rappel off the back-side and then a wandery but easy walk-off.

Location

To the right of Slim Pickings, the initial part of the wall becomes less steep. Right of a crack system, you can see bolts on the upper part of the wall. Start below the left set of bolts.

Protection

Bring a full rack, to include at least a #5 Camalot. Four bolts and two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Robocop, Cap Rock J Tree. Flaring cracks are behind, looking for the holds to move right onto the face
[Hide Photo] Robocop, Cap Rock J Tree. Flaring cracks are behind, looking for the holds to move right onto the face

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeremy Romero
San Clemente, CA
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] This could be rated PG13 just for the lack of pro to start the climb and awkward chimney move i placed a black totem behind this little flake before rolling up and over the starting boulder.... probably would have blew. Also the commitment needed to get to the second bolt makes you think, a fall above the first bolt would most likely leave you on the huge ledge under you dont blow it. The rock quality on the slab is great and the runouts just keep getting longer im a solid 5.10 climber and I was stoked to clip the anchors . Nov 24, 2020
James Jen
San Diego, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A BD #5 protects the chimney move. For someone unfamiliar with chimney'ing, I needed the pro. I tried off-width'ing from deeper in the crack-- didn't work for me and I fell off. Staying out of the crack and using basic chimney technique was definitely much easier.

Miramontes lists the route as 5.9-- felt like it could be 5.9. Crux move is getting established on the face after clipping the first bolt. Like another commenter mentioned, there felt like decking potential between the first and second clips.

Decent is a short rappel off the back side and then a walk-off.

We TR'ed with a 70m rope. With a very long anchor, rope barely reached the ground. Route is at least 120 ft.

Miramontes incorrectly lists three bolts (there are four). Jan 31, 2022
Nigel Barry
 
[Hide Comment] Over 30m (100ft), 120ft sounds like a better length Apr 10, 2024