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Routes in Breakfast Cliff

Diner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Poos, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morning Schist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Wood S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pete's Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waffle House S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 1,470 total, 18/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Apr 25, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up the ramp on the left to clip the first bolt. From here, walk up the ramp until you find a start that is to your liking! If you are under 5.8", it might be a little easier to start on the crimps about 4 feet to the left of the first bolt and traverse at an angle on crimps to the second bolt. Both ways are about equal, depending on your height. The first 30 feet of this route climb very nicely on crimps and sidepulls. You are rewarded with a 5.6 warm down for the last 15 feet to get to the top.

Location

This is just left of Pete's Kitchen.

Protection

6 bolts & 2 bolts anchor.
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.10d
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.10d
So yeah, at 5'5", both my partner and I felt like this was stiff for the grade. Probably be 11a/b in BoCan, haha. Jun 25, 2017
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
I would agree with the rating of 5.11 for shorter people. I'm about 5'9", and I had to do a stout move from the lower crimp to get off the ledge and reach for the better crimp with my right hand. My friend who is just about 5'11" could just reach the move before stepping off the ledge. Great climb. Oct 11, 2014
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10c
Kevin: Letting you know that I was up there today enjoying the fruits of your labor. Did the 4 routes suitable for we who are not 5.12 material. I completely agree with the ape index effect on the rating for Waffle House. At 5'11", it took every mm of my reach to get off the ledge on the lower crux with a 10b move instead of an 11a move. Good work putting up these nice routes. Thanks, Dave Rogers. Sep 13, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
I agree, it has a very reachy move off the ledge. I'm 5.10" and I don't think it feels harder than 10c or d, but my girlfriend is 5.1" and she doesn't like that move, it may be a 5.11 for shorter people. Aug 21, 2011
Erick Valler
flat midwest
Erick Valler   flat midwest
Kevin- got on this route this morning.... I think a 10c/d rating is accurate unless you are 5'10" or shorter, then making it off the ledge is a huge task, probably 11a. Fun route though either way. Aug 21, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
I am hesitant to say this may be 11a, because I am not that great at rating, but this route has been very challenging for solid 5.10 climbers. Also, I am curious as to whether or not anyone has gotten on any of the routes on this wall besides the 5.8. Any thoughts anyone? Aug 17, 2011
Fantastic face climbing!! So much fun, my man!! Apr 27, 2011
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Luke, what can I say.... You are an inspiration to us all. Keep on keepin' on. This is a great route though, very nice face climbing. Apr 27, 2011
Very fun and interesting face climbing. This one will clean up nice!! Thanks for the new routes, Kevin! Apr 27, 2011