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Routes in B-52 Rock

Breaking Bad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Line Between Genius and Insanity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
It's Not Brain Surgery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
It's Not Rocket Science TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Shack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Roam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines: January 2001
Page Views: 679 total, 8/month
Shared By: john durr on Apr 24, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fun hand and finger crack climbs much better than it looks from afar. Decent rock and good moves with nice exposure.

Location

This right slanting crack is on the west face across from the prominent Private Idaho dihedral.

Protection

Light rack stoppers to 2-1/2" CD and one bolt. Bolted belay/rappel anchor. Single rope rappel

Photos

Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
This route and its neighbor, Breaking Bad, are excellent choices for 5.8 aficionados like me. The hardest part is probably right at the start. I kept putting in gear thinking that it might be getting harder along the way, but big holds continued to appear along the exciting exposed upper half of the route. Long slings on gear at the end of the traversing section help minimize rope drag at the top. Mar 24, 2014