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Routes in Alcove Area

A Work in Progress V2 5+
All I Need is WUBs V2 5+
Backflip Project V7-8 7B
Belief V0 4
Entrance Exam V5 6C
Entrance Exam - Sit V7 7A+
G&P V1-2 5
Premature Egg Baby V8 7B
Progressive Work V4 6B
Ramps are Rad V0- 4-
Sunshine Slab V0+ 4+
Traditionally Challenged V0 4
Uvula V0+ 4+
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Norman Montes
Page Views: 791 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Apr 23, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sit Start with a left hand jug around the arete and a right hand jug flake. Make some hard compression moves up the arete and top out through the tree.

Location

Turnoff the main trail immediately before you would to get to Ramps are Rad. follow a corridor for ~30 feet and you'll see the suspended boulder of Premature Egg Baby.

Protection

Pads and spotter

Photos

Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
Norm sent this today. Jan 5, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Who's Norm? Jan 5, 2012
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
Norman Montes. The kid's coach from Rockreation Santa Monica. Jan 5, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Ah. Congrats to Norman! I spose' he can name the problem if he wants... Jan 5, 2012
Sean Denny
Irvine
  V8
Sean Denny   Irvine
  V8
Had a chat with Norm today and we agreed to revise the grade. So far he's the only one to have sent (that I know of), and the few I know who have tried and failed (including myself) think this is pretty darn hard. We'll see how it stands up to future judgment. I guess that means somebody else should get out and try this thing... hint hint. Jan 30, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
To be perfectly honest, I lost all motivation to work this line after about 1.5 attempts. The moves were hard, yes, but the cramped space, crappy rock, and thrutchy movement warded me off. Not my cup of tea, I guess. I thought there were much better lines nearby, but now that people have been givin' it on this problem, my interest is piqued. Maybe it's cleaned up? Jan 31, 2012
Sean Denny
Irvine
  V8
Sean Denny   Irvine
  V8
Meh, the rock is still in the evolving phase, but all the holds you're gonna use (as far as I know) are solid. Personally, I kinda liked the space; it is easy to project by yourself, and it stays extra cool. To be sure, it won't be winning any beauty contests, but the movement is undeniably cool. Jan 31, 2012

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