All Locations > Maine > -Shagg Crag

Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy

Name: Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy
Rating: 2.0

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in -Shagg Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Diesel S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Elephant Knows, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fat Bastard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Generous Sons S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Grand Escape, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grimas De Oro V8 7B
	It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Lady’s Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Long and Short of It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Nice Lady S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Night Moves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Open Project S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Raging Bull, The V8 7B
	Rain Czech S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ritual, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Shagg Zag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Short Bobcat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Solstice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Summer Smoke S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ubershagg S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown Name S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	What About Bob? S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	When the fat lady sings S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Jim Ewing
Page Views:	1,275 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Mike Veazey on Apr 22, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

2022 Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.

To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…" (edited)

Description

Begins from chain anchors on the left side of the "Bird's Perch" ledge. Thin climbing past 3 bolts lead to the huge roof above. Crazy campus moves out left lead to a cool stemming finish and the top of the cliff.

This and Death to the Queen share the same anchor. To get back to the ledge it is best to lower from the second or third to last bolt.