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Routes in Sidewinder Buttress

Bivi's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Don't Put Your Hand In It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eye S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zelonish Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
sidewinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 108 total · 1/month
Shared By: Of little faith on Apr 22, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

This is the route that goes up the large quarried face that can be seen from the parking area. Climb past the hangerless first bolt, then on a fun arete through two more bolts. You will reach a horizontal crack that takes some good gear and then pull up onto a thin face for some committing and bold moves. Run it out or find some gear over easier ground to the anchors. This could be a great climb if it was cleaned up, rebolted, and shown a little love. Not sure if the FA party just did a terrible job or if the route was partially chopped, or maybe a huge piece of the wall fell off containing the rest of the route. If you plan to try this route be careful.

Location

From the main parking area, hike up towards the sidewinder buttress and when you reach the edge of the rock, head right across the steep and barren scree gully(don't die). Find the small ledge below the arete and head straight up.

Protection

small to medium gear, wire for the hangerless bolt, rather large cojones

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