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Routes in Sidewinder Buttress

Bivi's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Don't Put Your Hand In It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Peel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eye S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zelonish Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
sidewinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Randall Green, Dave Jones 1990
Page Views: 1,017 total, 13/month
Shared By: ConorD on Apr 22, 2011 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This is a great climb on good rock, very similar to its neighbor Snake Eye. Heads up the left most bolted line to a dihedral, then up to ledge to share anchors with Snake Eye.

Protection

Quickdraws, chain anchors, one fixed pin

Location

on the uphill end of the buttress, this climb is located on a lower angle bowl shaped wall. do some 4th class moves to get to the base, marked by a large dead juniper tree. This is the left line of the two sport routes.

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Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
  5.8 R
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
  5.8 R
IMO this line could warrant an R rating given the distance between bolts, the rusty Chouinard knifeblade mid-route, and the heavily polished holds from bottom to top - you can tell it gets a lot of traffic. It's not your typical moderate Montana limestone clip-up. A climber that blows the second clip will likely deck from 20 feet on the dead juniper ledge... All that and the large, semi-detached flake (with lots of chalk on it) just below the top out. Pull down, not out!

The holds are all there and the chainlink hangers seem to be in good shape but it will be a heady lead for a newer climber or someone who maxes out in the 5.8 range. Jun 27, 2016