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Routes in Second Buttress

Ball and Chain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Captain Ging S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Overhang S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flies on S**t S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flying Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Cling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasant Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 10 T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus De Milo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Venus Fly Trap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,523 total, 31/month
Shared By: ConorD on Apr 21, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

The most popular climb on the Second Buttress, and a good one to start or end the day, or take some friends up. Starts up a face to a small stance, then up a straight in crack to pull two roofs. Look out for the pleasant surprises!

Location

This is the farthest route to the left up the slab on the 2nd buttress, marked by a few bolts to start and a crack that heads through a roof.

Protection

Single rack to 2", stoppers, a few quickdraws and runners, chain anchors.

Photos

Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.8
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.8
This climb is spectacular...pulling the final roof is so much fun. I think 5.8 is spot on, and the gear is plentiful and straightforward throughout. Sep 6, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
It's a 5.8 if you're here to climb 5.12s. Aug 9, 2014