Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,984 total · 21/month
Shared By: Of little faith on Apr 21, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

One of the most trafficked climbs in the canyon, among the few 10's on the buttress. Climb blocky start to high first bolt, and then up through white crystally rock. Careful of the greasy holds below the first bolt.

Location

This route is right at the end of the approach trail, the first route that you will come to. Look for the large section of white rock.

Protection

quickdraws, chain anchors

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Did a 2nd pitch on this after noticing there were chain anchors at the top. It's mostly a long hand crack and theoretically could be a good route, but it's quite dirty - lots of lichens and a bit of loose rock.
Probably goes around 5.8+; there are no bolts between the 2 belays. May 10, 2012
Brendan Jordan
  5.10a
Brendan Jordan  
  5.10a
If you do this thing in the summer, be ready for climbing amongst the wasps! They tend to infest the top of this route from June through September. Really fun, classic Kootenai line, though. Jan 8, 2017
ricktorre Torre
Philipsburg, MT
ricktorre Torre   Philipsburg, MT
brad hutchenson added station at top of crack,after climbing ist w/mikescott. Jul 27, 2017
Al Torrisi  
 
Warmed up on this route a few days ago. I loved this route but it’s not a casual after dinner 10a. I am 62 years old and have been climbing for 45 of those years. This route is bolted in a very “sporty” fashion. The distance between the last two bolts and the last bolt to the chains is around 20’. You’d be looking at darkness at noon if you fell before making one of those clips. I read that this was someone’s first lead but my guess is that that person likely had climbed the route before. I would not recommend this as anyone’s first lead. One could argue that the grade should be 10b but 10a felt right to me. Making the moves between the distantly spaced bolts brought back memories of the use of zen mind control climbing between well spaced RPs in Eldorado Canyon. Also, I recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt because if you blow the clip it would be ugly. Note we had a perfect fall day and the route never felt slimy and there were no wasps. This climb requires you to constantly work to determine the best finger/hand positions on the sometimes weirdly angled handholds. If you are solid at 5.10 do this route. I’m giving it 3 stars. Sep 15, 2018