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Blockhead

5.10d, Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Nathan Conroy, Vishal Patel, Josh Cook 2010
International > S America > Chile > Valle Cochamó > Valle Trinidad > Pared Tetris

Description

This route was established ground up in a day. It is still dirty, and is a good way to break into the adventure climbing style of Cochamó, as it is only six pitches.

P1: Climb the blocky dihedral until reaching a big ledge at about 65 meters. (5.8 65m)

P2: Climb over a roof with a wide crack to gain a big grassy ledge. Set up belay below the giant flake/roof. (5.8 50m)

P3: Climb right of the roof to gain a ledge then move left and climb up the blocks. Belay at tree beneath dual dihedrals. (5.8 60m)
  • There is an obvious squeeze chimney here left of the roof that is still waiting an ascent. Be warned, tis hard!

P4: Climb into the dihedral on the left, moving into the dihedral on the right. Ascend until reaching ledges. (5.9 60m)

P5: Walk forth class ledge left until reaching a tricky downclimb and even trickier traverse. After the traverse move back up and right (watch rope drag) and belay at a ledge. (5.10d 55m)

P6: Continue up blocks until reaching a ledge that moves far right. Do a few crux moves to gain the top of the wall.

"EASY" 5TH CLASS CLIMBING TO THE SUMMIT

DESCENT:Their are rappel stations that start from a tree where you top out and go down the route. The final rappel involves hiking down to a big slab, finding two nuts and tat below a boulder and rapping from there....so, bring extra bail nuts and your own tat because you might not find the anchors. Again, this is an adventure climb!

Protection

Double set C3s to #3 Camalot
Single #4 Camalot
Set of stoppers
Long runners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo from the refuge.
[Hide Photo] Topo from the refuge.
Somewhere on Pitch 3?
[Hide Photo] Somewhere on Pitch 3?