Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nathan Conroy, Vishal Patel, Josh Cook 2010
Page Views: 646 total · 5/month
Shared By: Josh Cook on Apr 21, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route

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This route was established ground up in a day. It is still dirty, and is a good way to break into the adventure climbing style of Cochamó, as it is only six pitches.

P1: Climb the blocky dihedral until reaching a big ledge at about 65 meters. (5.8 65m)

P2: Climb over a roof with a wide crack to gain a big grassy ledge. Set up belay below the giant flake/roof. (5.8 50m)

P3: Climb right of the roof to gain a ledge then move left and climb up the blocks. Belay at tree beneath dual dihedrals. (5.8 60m)

*There is an obvious squeeze chimney here left of the roof that is still waiting an ascent. Be warned, tis hard!

P4: Climb into the dihedral on the left, moving into the dihedral on the right. Ascend until reaching ledges. (5.9 60m)

P5: Walk forth class ledge left until reaching a tricky downclimb and even trickier traverse. After the traverse move back up and right (watch rope drag) and belay at a ledge. (5.10d 55m)

P6: Continue up blocks until reaching a ledge that moves far right. Do a few crux moves to gain the top of the wall.


DESCENT: There are rappel stations that start from a tree where you top out and go down the route. The final rappel involves hiking down to a big slab, finding two nuts and tat below a boulder and rapping from there....so, bring extra bail nuts and your own tat because you might not find the anchors. Again, this is an adventure climb!


Double set C3s to #3 Camalot
Single #4 Camalot
Set of stoppers
Long runners