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Routes in Main Saddle

Awesome, or Hella Stupid? V0 4
Ballet Lessons V6 7A
Fuzzy Little Man Peach V0+ 4+ PG13
Hightower V4 6B
Kingston Lean V5 6C
Lowtower V4-5 6B+
Old Man Project, The V5-6 6C+
Overtaker V7 7A+
Serious as a Schoolgirl V2 5+ PG13
Stomp! V4 6B
Tiptoe V1 5
Trampsylvania V1 5
Undertaker V3-4 6A+
Walking on Sunshine Project V6+ 7A
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: None yet, hopefully soon
Page Views: 485 total, 6/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Apr 20, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Still in need of some cleaning, but traffic will help a lot.
Start down and right of the obvious pocket in the slab. Once at the pocket, there are another several feet of slightly dimpled sandstone slab that must be surmounted before victory is yours.
Sunset hits the slab this time of year.

Location

On the boulder directly opposite Tiptoe. Start down and right from the obvious pocket.

Protection

Pads and Spotter

Photos

Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
I decided to finally rappel into this line today. After a solid hour of brushing, this boulder problem is now in decent climbing shape. Certainly it could be cleaner, and the topout is still on the grimy side, but you can now see and use the holds above the pocket. Only one problem; those holds are a LOT smaller than I thought they would be.

I gave it some goes on TR, and managed to piece together the top section, but I still haven't solved the first two or three moves out of the pocket. This is going to be much harder than I first expected. Maybe somewhere around V6-8?

Apparently, I'm terrible at predicting how hard a line will be. I originally thought Premature Egg Baby would be V2. Shame on me.

Anyways, this climb is now clean and chalked and in need of suitors. Get to it! FA glory awaits. Feb 4, 2013