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Routes in Galaxy Buttress

Apollo 13 T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Chek S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin McLane, Joe Turley 1995
Page Views: 568 total, 7/month
Shared By: Dru on Apr 20, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route climbs from the water level to the big ledge near the top of Star Chek. Rappel in to a belay at water level. during high water levels in the spring, the base of the climb may be unsafe due to high water levels covering the boulders at the base of the climb. Look before you rap in!

The first pitch is the crux: 35m 10c/d. Climb off a pillar/pinnacle boulder and up sustained face climbing by a small roof/overhang, pulling into a bolted groove to finish to a ledge and belay.

The second pitch (10 a/b) climbs up more slabby terrain to a crack, then moves left past bolts to a few face moves onto the giant ledge 1 pitch from the top of Star Chek. There is a large hanging guillotine flake off to the left of this pitch, unless it has fallen off by now.

The third pitch climbs the short 5.8/9 finishing slab of Star Chek.

Location

Make the first rap in as for Star Chek to the large ledge, then a 60m double-rope rap in to the boulders at water level, or two single rope raps in (25m, 35m).

Protection

8 quickdraws and a couple of med-large wire nuts and cams to 2.5"

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