Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nathan Conroy, Vishal Patel, Josh Cook
Page Views: 1,803 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Cook on Apr 20, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route

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This is perhaps the easiest route that can get you to a Cochamo summit. From the laguna, hike up the Cerro Laguna slabs for about 300m, veering left until you get to a ledge below a left facing dihedral. Start roping up here, following the pitch description:

P1: Climb the dihedral and then move right onto the face. Cruise up the slab to a single bolt belay (gear can be found to back up the bolt). (5.6R 60m)
P2: Move up dihedral until it joins with a roof. Go right then follow cracks up the slab until you reach a big roof. Rope stretcher! (5.6 63m)
P3: Simul up easy 3rd and 4th class until reaching a cairn. Climb face to a single bolt protected slab above a roof crack. Surmount the slab and reach a two bolt belay. (5.9 30m)
- Up the beautiful arching hand crack in a corner to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a 50m)
- "El Ciego" Up the left finger crack to the blank slab. Finish at same anchor as arching hand crack. Amazing, heady pitch (5.11b R)
- "Goats, Chickens & Lizards" Out right through broken R-rated but easy climbing for 3 extra pitches that meet up with pitch 6 (5.6 R)
P5: Climb up the slab and tapering off corner to climb corners and face past a few bolts and eventually up to a two bolt anchor. (5.10a 50m)
P6: Climb slab past a bolt to a two bolt anchor. (5.8 20m)
  • Scramble and hike to the summit.

DESCENT: Rap route with two 60m ropes. Make sure you remember where you went!


Doubles of C3s to #3 Camalots
Set of nuts
Long slings and draws
2nd Rope for rapping