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Routes in West Face/ Southwest Arete

Born of Water T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cloud Man Got Angry T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forbes Route (East Approach) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Forbes Route (West Approach) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I'itoi Dance T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watcher of the Skies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 1,443 total, 18/month
Shared By: greg k on Apr 18, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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7 Opinions

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Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking Details

Description

Enjoyable route parallels Born of Water for the first 4 pitches before wending and winding its way to the top on easier terrain.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Snake through trees and cross "crap" (according to the medical community) before finding good pro, followed by 2 bolts and finally fun finger crack. Belay at cactus infested ledge (+- 120ft)
Pitch 2 (5.10a): Turn roof on good pro, continue up and left to 1 bolt before angling back right to 2 bolt belay (+- 80ft)
Pitch 3 (5.8+): Fun climbing up 9 bolts to 2nd 2 bolt belay (+- 200ft)
Pitch 4 (5.10a): More bolt (10) climbing on harder face to 3rd 2 bolt belay at right side of I'itoi's balcony (+- 200ft)
Pitch 5 (scramble): Move belay to left end of I'itoi's balcony (+- 80ft)
Pitch 6 (5.7): Follow left angling dike clipping 3 bolts, running out last 100 ft. 70m rope or 20ft of simul-climbing gets you to oak tree belay and top of I'itoi Dance, pitch 6 (+- 220ft) [NB: Strassman's topo indicates that this pitch would dump you out well above I'itoi Dance pitch 6; we did not find that to be the case...]
Pitch 7 (5.10): Last engaging pitch of I'itoi Dance (4 bolts). Sling trees at ledge and belay (+- 80ft)
Pitch 8 (5.7): Up and right on mediocre gear and sometimes questionable rock (+- 120ft)
Use 70 m rope to combine pitches 1 & 2, gain peace of mind on (our) pitch 6, and coalesce pitches 7 & 8

Topo: rockclimbing.com/photos/Top…
FA's description: books.google.com/books?id=k…'itoi%20Dance%22&f=false

Location

More or less in middle of Babo's southwest face. 30ft right (east) of Born of Water and just left of bolted slab (Watcher of the Skies). Someone was kind enough to leave purple sling dangling from 1st bolt to demarcate route.

Protection

nuts and cams
12 alpine draws

Photos

Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.10b
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.10b
Had fun on this route, first time up Babo, so I can't say how it compares to other routes, but I felt the lower section before I'itoi's patio was pretty good, less so above that. Overall the route was mellower than I expected, and I don't think a solid 5.9 leader would have trouble on it. The description here is pretty good, just a few things to add.

Locating the route is a bit challenging. The purple sling is still there, just very faded to almost gray. To find the route (from the west/Great Ramp) traverse across Lion's Ledge until it suddenly drops down and the wall steepens. This route starts about 40 feet before the steep downhill.

Pitch 1 was maybe the spiciest and felt just as hard as pitches 2 and 4 to me. The crack section would be very nice if it wasn't so full of grass.

Pitch 2 roof is extremely well protected and felt 5.9-. The bolt above is impossible to see until you are right on it. It is about 10 feet left and 25 feet above where you turn the roof.

Pitch 3 is a nice long bolted 5.8 and the rock is pretty good.

Pitch 4 is another nice long pitch with a lot of bolts. Felt 5.9 to me.

The remainder of the route was three wandering piches with lots of easy 5th. We did the last bolted pitch of I'itoi Dance as described here (5.10a/b?), but there are lots of options to keep the grade under 5.10 on the upper section. Not sure how the OP was able to link that bolted pitch to the top. We found it to be about 280 feet. But maybe by going further right than we did you can unrope earlier.

We used a #3 a couple times, but it's optional. Single rack is perfect. Lots of draws for the 4th pitch. May 18, 2016
Fun climbing in a spectacular place. Rack can be pared down to set of stoppers and singles of cams up to BD #2 or maybe even BD #1, and ~12 draws. Mar 17, 2013