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Routes in Tyrolean Tower

"The Gap" T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lone Pine Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Way Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
No Way Down Direct AKA "Tyrolean Tower" T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 50 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Apr 18, 2011
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The Gap is listed in Sven's guidebook as starting in "The Gap" between the south wall of T Tower and a blank face. I started the route on "No Way Down" and belayed my partner to the ledge to do the rest of the route. The 5.8 version goes up a layback crack then right to the corner, a 5.9 version goes straight up (not recommended).

Location

Climb the first half of "No Way Down" and exit right to a ledge. Find the thin crack and solo to the horizontal.

Protection

SKETCHY! I brought up a crash pad for the first part and got two ok cams in a horizontal for some weird moves up and right. Belay standing on a small ledge on the corner.

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