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Routes in Cascade Falls - Left

Crimson Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Filthy Rich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fish Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Press T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jug Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mud Shark T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlett and Don Reid (June, '83)
Page Views: 277 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 18, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


There is a tall pillar of rock at the left end of Cascade Falls. Golden Needles climbs the right side of this pillar, while Filthy Rich climbs the left side.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 90ft): Scramble up to the start of the double cracks in a corner. Jam your way up them to reach an offwidth. There are knobs out on the main face which allow you to stem and lieback and avoid getting in the offwidth. Above is a small ledge. Climb up the corner a bit further to reach a bomber nut placement. Move left (crux) to a flake which you lieback up a ways. Pass some slings around a chockstone and belay on the blocky ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 110 ft): Stand up on a block to reach below a roof. There's good gear here (2-3"). Undercling and lieback around the roof to the left to reach a dirty groove. Climb past a small tree and some bushes and head for another roof above. Climb over the roof using some juggy knobs. Then move left and up. The climbing here deteriorates into loose 4th class dirt. Belay at the tree with rap slings on it at the top of the pillar.

To descend, rappel Golden Needles with a 60 or 70m rope.


Pro to 3"

A 6" cam is also useful on the first pitch.


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