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Justified Ancients of Mu Mu

5.8, Sport, 75 ft (23 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.1 from 120 votes
FA: Kevin Pogue, Mike Hyland
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine Wall > (c) King Pins

Description

Can be done as one pitch or two. There is a two bolt anchor halfway up, on top of the large ledge, and another at the top. Moves are straightforward between standard Vantage incut holds on the first pillar, and increase in difficulty on the second half.

Location

Near the beginning (climber's right) of King Pins. A well chalked six foot step leads to a ledge, then the bolts lead up the pillar. When you reach the top of the column (halfway up the wall) move to the next column to the right and follow the rest of the bolts. 

Protection

6 bolts to first anchor, 3 to second. First anchor has rap chains, second has lowering biners.

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The route
[Hide Photo] The route
A good 5.8
[Hide Photo] A good 5.8

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] this was the route where I came upon a scene of a climber laying on his back at the base who had a ground fall from a few bolts up. I wish I took a picture of the failed sling. It was a length of 9/16" tubular webbing which his son that was about 8 had glued together and it went unnoticed till it pulled apart. Feb 12, 2018
Jordan Rogers
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Very nice climb with a mix of moves between the bottom section and top section. Bottom section gives you the option of climbing up a crack on the right or an arete/face on the left of the bolts. Oct 26, 2020
Crystal Collins
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Set up a couple directionals if you have people TR’ing to the top anchor. Good climbing all the way up - top half was noticeably easier than the bottom Sep 18, 2021