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Desolation Row
5.4,
Trad, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 0.7 from 7
votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Pulse Wall
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area
Details
Description
When you first look at this climb you might wonder why we bothered to climb it. To be honest I am not sure the rational but I am glad we did. There is some really fun climbing hidden in the gully.
Pull into the corner/gully and get good gear. Although the corner is dirty make fun moves up the solid rock aiming to the top of the gully. The crux is either pulling into the corner or at the top where you must step over a downed tree. The tree is hard to avoid and can be a rope management hazard.
Climb to the top then pick a tree to make an anchor to bring your second up on.
If the climb gets cleaned and the tree removed it would get another star. The cleaning wouldn't be hard but the downed tree will be difficult to move if there is anyone else at the cliff. It might get cleaned up at some point.
Location
Located in the gully to the left of the hideously blank face of Tales from the Crimp .12b/c and to the right of the bouldery Gulliver's Travels .11b.
Protection
Regular rack and slings or webbing for an anchor at the trees.
Center Harbor, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Center Harbor, NH
Northeast
Center Harbor, NH
Also I agree that some of Bradley's routes are not highest quality, but have some respect, he is going out doing what he likes, don't judge him for that. Apr 18, 2011
New England
Have fun and don't let a codger get you down.
Actually, I respect Bradley a lot. I can still bust his balls some. Apr 18, 2011
Center Harbor, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
i love rock climbs... period!
we are all having fun and that's the point :)
i once had a plan to make a movie called "rumney's worst" since i was climbing them anyway i thought i'd capture the ridiculousness on film... perhaps its time to make it happen :) and when it hits youtube it will cut down the crowds big time haha Apr 18, 2011
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
While I'm not in flavor of segregating routes into two different sections (who am I to decide which is classic?), I think the use of stars might help to separate the classic from the mossy. When you're submitting a route, ask yourself if it's truly a 2 or 3 star route. Chances are, it's not, and deserves 1 star, or a bomb.
BTW, I gave this route a bomb rating to balance out Mark's 4-star rating. Mark, has climbing at Greens skewed your perspective that much? Apr 19, 2011
New England
So, am I going to get you out to Green's and/or Owl's this year, Jay? For your first visit, definitely wait until after the bugs. Apr 19, 2011
Bend
Thornton, NH
Center Harbor, NH
Jay, I think this route will be a decent route once i clean it up (which will be after the prime fall season is over). But since it offends so many people feel free to take it down and I will repost it when its clean. Dont want people losing sleep over something so small. Oct 13, 2011
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
New England