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Desolation Row

5.4, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 0.7 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Rumney > Pulse Wall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

When you first look at this climb you might wonder why we bothered to climb it. To be honest I am not sure the rational but I am glad we did. There is some really fun climbing hidden in the gully.

Pull into the corner/gully and get good gear. Although the corner is dirty make fun moves up the solid rock aiming to the top of the gully. The crux is either pulling into the corner or at the top where you must step over a downed tree. The tree is hard to avoid and can be a rope management hazard.

Climb to the top then pick a tree to make an anchor to bring your second up on.

If the climb gets cleaned and the tree removed it would get another star. The cleaning wouldn't be hard but the downed tree will be difficult to move if there is anyone else at the cliff. It might get cleaned up at some point.

Location

Located in the gully to the left of the hideously blank face of Tales from the Crimp .12b/c and to the right of the bouldery Gulliver's Travels .11b.

Protection

Regular rack and slings or webbing for an anchor at the trees.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This tree is a pain in the ass.
[Hide Photo] This tree is a pain in the ass.
Fun movement on this route.
[Hide Photo] Fun movement on this route.
Tim clipping just before the tree.
[Hide Photo] Tim clipping just before the tree.
Tim pulling into the corner.
[Hide Photo] Tim pulling into the corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.4
[Hide Comment] This route was developed ground up and onsight. With that said, there didn't seem to be much loose rock but there is some moss and the downed tree. I will try to clean this up in the not so distant future. Apr 17, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] haha nice! my kind of route :) Apr 17, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Actually though of you Lee while doing this haha Apr 17, 2011
Jake D.
Northeast
[Hide Comment] "insert joke that can't be taken as a joke" Apr 18, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.4
[Hide Comment] I think it is amusing how, in Rumney a route that is not a perfectly clean sport climb gets scoffed at. I know that is the style that Rumney is known for but that doesnt mean there aren't other types of climbs people can climb here. This route will prob be climbed by Lee (as I know he enjoys these sorts of climbs) and then never touched again, but it was fun and enjoyable experience for Tim and myself and we posted it to share for anyone searching for something different in Rumney, not so it can be scoffed at by people.

Also I agree that some of Bradley's routes are not highest quality, but have some respect, he is going out doing what he likes, don't judge him for that. Apr 18, 2011
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] I'm just busting you, Matt, though I was semi serious about if every obscure scramble is posted, what most people are looking for could be buried in a deluge. Which was not to take away from your enjoyment. After all, I think Mister Quinn, myself and others have scrambled up just about every combination under 5.7 of gully and semi route while we were hanging out there and putting up the bolted routes. It is fun, especially if you have been hitting the pipeweed, but we didn't really consider them routes.

Have fun and don't let a codger get you down.
Actually, I respect Bradley a lot. I can still bust his balls some. Apr 18, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.4
[Hide Comment] I wasn't offended I have just noticed a trend on this site concerning the treatment of lower quality routes, or whatever you want to consider them :) I have one question though Mark... 4 stars? Apr 18, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] yeah, ill climb it :) glad you thought of me...
i love rock climbs... period!
we are all having fun and that's the point :)

i once had a plan to make a movie called "rumney's worst" since i was climbing them anyway i thought i'd capture the ridiculousness on film... perhaps its time to make it happen :) and when it hits youtube it will cut down the crowds big time haha Apr 18, 2011
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
 
[Hide Comment]
M Sprague wrote:Maybe we need a new section for Rumney, called "Obscure Choss Heaps, Scrambles and Bushwhacks"...Do you think maybe too many of these in the regular sections might end up burying the noteworthy climbs?
I have actually been thinking about this lately, and I agree that some of the more "classic" Rumney climbs are getting drowned out by the numerous new additions.

While I'm not in flavor of segregating routes into two different sections (who am I to decide which is classic?), I think the use of stars might help to separate the classic from the mossy. When you're submitting a route, ask yourself if it's truly a 2 or 3 star route. Chances are, it's not, and deserves 1 star, or a bomb.

BTW, I gave this route a bomb rating to balance out Mark's 4-star rating. Mark, has climbing at Greens skewed your perspective that much? Apr 19, 2011
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] There is usually a method to my madness.

So, am I going to get you out to Green's and/or Owl's this year, Jay? For your first visit, definitely wait until after the bugs. Apr 19, 2011
[Hide Comment] Hey guys, In reading the comments I wasn't surprised to see my name come up as a topic of writing on this one. I really like the name Ball Buster, Mark, and you will probably get a chance to bust my balls again sometime. I won't go off the handle again though. When I find another decent hard-man's route at Rumney that's appropriate for Ball Buster, I'm going to name it that. When I started in 1980 at Rattlesnake, my friends nicknamed me Mung because of all the dirty mossy climbs on boulders and short crags I would do free solo. It's now my email address name. Jun 23, 2011
Mike Zarnowski
Thornton, NH
[Hide Comment] FA Matt, Really? Too much pipeweed maybe Oct 12, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.4
[Hide Comment] took the FA credit off.

Jay, I think this route will be a decent route once i clean it up (which will be after the prime fall season is over). But since it offends so many people feel free to take it down and I will repost it when its clean. Dont want people losing sleep over something so small. Oct 13, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] for the record i think its lame that you shared a fun experience with everyone and ended up taking a bunch of shit for it... it's a rock climb like any other one... and why is it that people said its not worth putting up but then everyone wants to tell you how they did it first... interesting... anyway, dont let it keep you down! stay inspired and keep helping us make NH mountain project some of the best climbing content on the web! Oct 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] I think the brothers Heinrich and Hermann the squirrels got the FA a long time ago. Fritz Wiessner and most of the other Rumney pioneers tried earlier, but turned back on account of the exposure. The quote from Fritz was " No Fukken veh mann" Oct 14, 2011