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Routes in Left Rambo

Bloodsport T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloody Dick Art T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fishing for Trango T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liquid Charge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prescription, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Alex Stroud 4/5/11
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A wild and stunning line up the splitter system that cleaves the massive rectangular pillar which stands out from the far left prow of the wall, where the west face wraps around to the north. Something of an anomaly for the Creek, this thing offers 4 roofs/bulges and several corner changes; lowering from the anchor deposits you out 5-10 feet from the base. It also throws every size from blue TCU to new #5 camalot, with the majority being hands and cups. Definitely a burly outing with a unique character!
Start up splitter tips which quickly widens through tight hands to the first awkward slot guarding the upper corners. The lower portion of the pillar cleaved off at some point, leaving some friable rock to the right of the crack before the slot. It's not bad after some cleaning, and will clean up with some traffic. The remainder of the route is on excellent chocolate varnish. Once past the initial slot follow hands and cups in a left-facing corner to a 15' #5 camalot section immediately followed by a short hands roof. Continue up to the upper slot bulge where the corners change. This is passed via strenuous hands in the back and knee-locks into fists and cups. The final right-facing corner is all cups, with a stance rest before the last 20' overhanging cups corner (reminiscent of Think Pink) to the exposed belay slot. A full 70m rope just gets you back to earth.

Location

Very obvious splitter system up the center of the massive rectangular pillar on the far left side of the wall. This pillar is on the skyline of the cliff when seen from the Cottonwoods or Rambo parking. Plaque at base.

Protection

(1)red C3, .3 .5 .75 (2) .4 #1 (4) #2 (6) #3 (1) new #4 and new #5 Camalots, extending slings, chain anchors.

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