Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: J. Smith and Banny Root, 1988
Page Views: 585 total · 6/month
Shared By: urs on Apr 17, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This stout little line is a direct start to Bush League. Follow a thin flaring finger crack until it joins up with Bush League right before the offwidth section. A really thin start leads to better finger locks then straight into a balancy stem between two cracks. The crux starts right off the deck with marginal pro and stays pretty sustained until you reach Bush League.

Location

This is the crack just left of Bush League and joins Bush League about half way up the route.

Protection

Small pro until you reach Bush League were you need some big pieces for the offwidth section. 2 bolt anchor with rap chains.

Photos

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stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
There are at least two climbs between bush league and pictures. I did both. The direct start to Bush league is much harder than 10 C. the other climb, a bit further left, goes directly up to the corner of the roof, and finishes above a fixed piton. This one has two 11A/B cruxes, and has one spot of marginal pro. Aug 6, 2012
Khick
  5.10c
Khick  
  5.10c
Was put off from doing this route from the PG13 rating but found it pretty decent. From one move off the ground you can get a nut in on the right and a small cam in the crack directly above. The gear is thin but good until you join back with bush league. More people should do it, its a pretty fun route! Jul 11, 2015