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Routes in One Of These Days Buttress

Bush League T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Diamond T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Little Miss Manners T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Livin' A Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Of These Days T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pictures of Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: J. Smith and Banny Root, 1988
Page Views: 571 total · 6/month
Shared By: urs on Apr 17, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This stout little line is a direct start to Bush League. Follow a thin flaring finger crack until it joins up with Bush League right before the offwidth section. A really thin start leads to better finger locks then straight into a balancy stem between two cracks. The crux starts right off the deck with marginal pro and stays pretty sustained until you reach Bush League.


This is the crack just left of Bush League and joins Bush League about half way up the route.


Small pro until you reach Bush League were you need some big pieces for the offwidth section. 2 bolt anchor with rap chains.


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Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
There are at least two climbs between bush league and pictures. I did both. The direct start to Bush league is much harder than 10 C. the other climb, a bit further left, goes directly up to the corner of the roof, and finishes above a fixed piton. This one has two 11A/B cruxes, and has one spot of marginal pro. Aug 6, 2012
Was put off from doing this route from the PG13 rating but found it pretty decent. From one move off the ground you can get a nut in on the right and a small cam in the crack directly above. The gear is thin but good until you join back with bush league. More people should do it, its a pretty fun route! Jul 11, 2015

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