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Miscegenation

5.12b PG13, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
FA: Mark Seelos, Adam Long, April 2nd, 2011
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Monolith > S Face
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start with a crimpy boulder move to the first bolt. Follow four more bolts up the overhanging face on suprisingly good but sharp edges. join the route Pearl Sheath at its last bolt.

Location

This route starts 5 feet right of The Black Dagger on the big boulder leaning up against the South Face of the Monolith. Both the approaches for the Back Door (detailed in the guidebook) or creeping along the base of the monolith work fine.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] I've done this route numerous times now, and I do like it a lot. Although it always seems really hard for the grade. At least to me. In comparison to other 5.12a's in the park this could be the most difficult. I feel okay giving this a 5.12b rating. It has great movement, a low crux, and is mostly comprised of longer moves to great edges with some options for the finish depending which way you break off. Nov 30, 2014
Zacharias Gustav
Santa Cruz, CA
[Hide Comment] I agree. I feel like the route looks like 12a but climbs like 12b. Reachy moves down low although there are probably many ways to do it. Overall, its a great route. Apr 10, 2015
Mark Seelos
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Adam and I agreed on .12b when we put this up- not sure why he listed it at .12a here... Sep 11, 2015
[Hide Comment] Anybody know if this gets morning or afternoon shade? Aug 15, 2016
Vlad S
San Francisco, CA
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Afternoon shade since it's east facing. Aug 16, 2016
Tommy D
Santa Cruz + Silver Meadow, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] Ground fall potential at 2nd bolt! It has happened once already. Difficult staging area. This route requires a super attentive belayer. One of the best 5.12's in the Park. Great job Mark and Adam! Oct 2, 2019
Adam Long
Santa Cruz, CA
  5.12b PG13
[Hide Comment] Changed the grade to 5.12b as suggested and added a pg13 rating as blowing the 2nd clip does result in a ground fall. I’ll try to revisit in the near future and consider the potential for moving the 2nd bolt down a bit. Nov 15, 2019