PRINT: Rock Climb Miscegenation, Central Coast

Miscegenation

5.12b PG13, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Mark Seelos, Adam Long, April 2nd, 2011
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Monolith > S Face

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.

Description

Start with a crimpy boulder move to the first bolt. Follow four more bolts up the overhanging face on suprisingly good but sharp edges. join the route Pearl Sheath at its last bolt.

Location

This route starts 5 feet right of The Black Dagger on the big boulder leaning up against the South Face of the Monolith. Both the approaches for the Back Door (detailed in the guidebook) or creeping along the base of the monolith work fine.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kyle Q
Bishop, CA

5.12a/b

I've done this route numerous times now, and I do like it a lot. Although it always seems really hard for the grade. At least to me. In comparison to other 5.12a's in the park this could be the most difficult. I feel okay giving this a 5.12b rating. It has great movement, a low crux, and is mostly comprised of longer moves to great edges with some options for the finish depending which way you break off. Nov 30, 2014

Zacharias Gustav
Santa Cruz, CA

I agree. I feel like the route looks like 12a but climbs like 12b. Reachy moves down low although there are probably many ways to do it. Overall, its a great route. Apr 10, 2015

Mark Seelos

5.12b

Adam and I agreed on .12b when we put this up- not sure why he listed it at .12a here... Sep 11, 2015

R Rod

Anybody know if this gets morning or afternoon shade? Aug 15, 2016

Vlad S
San Francisco, CA

5.12b

Afternoon shade since it's east facing. Aug 16, 2016

Tommy D
Santa Cruz + Silver Meadow, Ca

Ground fall potential at 2nd bolt! It has happened once already. Difficult staging area. This route requires a super attentive belayer. One of the best 5.12's in the Park. Great job Mark and Adam! Oct 2, 2019

Adam Long
Santa Cruz, CA

5.12b PG13

Changed the grade to 5.12b as suggested and added a pg13 rating as blowing the 2nd clip does result in a ground fall. I’ll try to revisit in the near future and consider the potential for moving the 2nd bolt down a bit. Nov 15, 2019