Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Seelos, Adam Long, April 2nd, 2011
Page Views: 1,853 total · 20/month
Shared By: Adamclimbs on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start with a crimpy boulder move to the first bolt. Follow four more bolts up the overhanging face on suprisingly good but sharp edges. join the route Pearl Sheath at its last bolt.

Location

This route starts 5 feet right of The Black Dagger on the big boulder leaning up against the South Face of the Monolith. Both the approaches for the Back Door (detailed in the guidebook) or creeping along the base of the monolith work fine.

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Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
  5.12a/b
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
  5.12a/b
I've done this route numerous times now, and I do like it a lot. Although it always seems really hard for the grade. At least to me. In comparison to other 5.12a's in the park this could be the most difficult. I feel okay giving this a 5.12b rating. It has great movement, a low crux, and is mostly comprised of longer moves to great edges with some options for the finish depending which way you break off. Nov 30, 2014
Zacharias Gustav
Santa Cruz, CA
Zacharias Gustav   Santa Cruz, CA
I agree. I feel like the route looks like 12a but climbs like 12b. Reachy moves down low although there are probably many ways to do it. Overall, its a great route. Apr 10, 2015
Mark Seelos
  5.12b
Mark Seelos  
  5.12b
Adam and I agreed on .12b when we put this up- not sure why he listed it at .12a here... Sep 11, 2015
Anybody know if this gets morning or afternoon shade? Aug 15, 2016
Vlad S
  5.12b
Vlad S  
  5.12b
Afternoon shade since it's east facing. Aug 16, 2016