Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route)
5.6,
Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 74
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flatirons
> North
> Second Flatiron
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This novelty variation makes the otherwise forgetable Dodge Block route worth repeating with a short bit of cool tunneling beneath a mini arch. The arch is visible from
Freeway and from pitch two of Dodge Block (also pictured on page 46 of the Fixed Pin guidebook).
Follow the Dodge Block route for two 60m pitches to the tree even with the foot of the Pullman Car. Rather than bailing out right towards
Freeway, continue straight up to the apex of the groove. Pass a pair of fixed pins, then stem up the 8'-high wall with good jugs and pockets to a tenuous move at the lip (5.6) to gain the easy slab above. Cruise the slab with minimal pro to the obvious arch. Tunnel under the arch (good gear in the tunnel) which is more difficult than you might expect. Climb over an easy step on the top end of the arch, and cruise 4th class terrain to reach the First Flatiron Trail.
This is easily done in three pitches with a 60m rope.
Location
Climbs the central gully on the east face of the Second Flatiron. To approach, follow the 2nd/3rd Flatiron Access Loop Trail to the foot of the Second Flatiron. Depart the trail and hike up a steep gully, heading SE along the base of the east face to a tree-filled gully that splits the east face. Head up the gully, make a few 4th class moves passing a huge boulder to the south, then continue hiking until the gully terminates in slabs (this is the top of the Second Flatironette).
Protection
Gear to 2". Two fixed pins just below the crux, but you will want some thin crack gear at the lip if you're near your limit. This is one of the better-protected Flatirons slabs, but expect some runouts on easy terrain.
[Hide Photo] Josh Lamar through the tunnel.
[Hide Photo] Photo of the crux wall. It does take gear. I think the pitons are trustworthy, but I backed them up just in case. Taken by Derek F.
Lynchburg, VA
"From the lowpoint of the the Second Flatiron (where the trail touches the base), head up through the trees to the south for a couple hundred feet. If the huge roof of the South Block is above you, you've gone just a little too far. Start on a rib/slab just below and to the right of the huge roof. This rib will have a 10 foot step visible about a ropelength up. Climb the south edge of the rib up to the step. Climb through the steep step via the easiest looking path. Soon you will be on a small summit." Sep 29, 2015
Barcelona, ES
Boulder, CO
Definitely recommend at least 1 piece of pro on the crux. Jul 9, 2017
Boulder, Co
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
We gained the large ledge on Dodge Block under the Pullman Car. We climbed directly up to the Pullman Car and went left, hugging the wall directly up the left gully (fun 5th, maybe 30m). A blockage in the gully forced an easy topout onto a ledge on the left. 10-20m further up the gulley we found a great squeezebox tunnel on the left wall (~5m). Some walking/3rd Class led to a large belay tree at the top of a short slab for a full 70m pitch. To get to the 1st Flatiron Trail, we needed to scramble through a notch directly below the summit, 50m.
A picture of the tunnel is here, but I didn't want to post it above in case this is the wrong climb: imgur.com/a/H1zbXdY. Sep 13, 2021
Boulder, CO
Usually you either do a rising traverse on the south side of the Pullman Car up to the crack, then up and over on the east face of the Pullman Car,
or you drop into the gully (hiking territory) and do a tricky move up a shallow corner with a slick boulder blocking your way - that's on the Pullman Car side of things.
Cool! Sep 13, 2021