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Keystone Greensteps

WI5, Ice, 650 ft (197 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 35 votes
FA: Jon Weiland and Jeff Lowe 70's
Alaska > S Central Alaska > S Central Alask… > Valdez > Keystone Canyon

Description

The classic ice line in Valdez!

First climbed by Lowe and Weiland on New Year's with a bivy at the second pitch cave.
Each pitch is long, 50-60 meters each, but the first and second pitches have about 40 feet of deep and steep snow to slog through at the top.

Each pitch is a broad curtain of ice and many variations do exist, so pick your line and go for it. Also, each pitch is seperated by a snow patch, so it's easy to identify how the pitches are laid out.

Location

Obvious waterfall, to the right of Bridal Veil (the other 600+ ft waterfall). Park in the pull out and hop the guardrail. Cross the river if it's frozen and you are there in less than 5 minutes.

Protection

10-12 screws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Big 4 as they appeared in 1985
[Hide Photo] The Big 4 as they appeared in 1985
Possible Ice Farm. MP is the simplest program to draw up a topo so that is why this pic has ended up here. This is the photo that we are sending to the land managers for the permitting.
[Hide Photo] Possible Ice Farm. MP is the simplest program to draw up a topo so that is why this pic has ended up here. This is the photo that we are sending to the land managers for the permitting.
Constance, Bdub and myself headed up the last pitch. Photo Constance Cloudberry Johnson
[Hide Photo] Constance, Bdub and myself headed up the last pitch. Photo Constance Cloudberry Johnson
Lookout for dino's that often nest at the anchor of pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Lookout for dino's that often nest at the anchor of pitch 2.
A great pic from Cloudberry Johnson of Nick leading the incredible first pitch of Green Steps.
[Hide Photo] A great pic from Cloudberry Johnson of Nick leading the incredible first pitch of Green Steps.
when we climbed it Jan 1986 during the Japanese-American Climber Exchange, put on by the AK Section of the AAC
[Hide Photo] when we climbed it Jan 1986 during the Japanese-American Climber Exchange, put on by the AK Section of the AAC
Keystone Greensteps
[Hide Photo] Keystone Greensteps
Belaying on the third pitch.
[Hide Photo] Belaying on the third pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan McCabe
[Hide Comment] Fist female ascent Sara Peebles. Jan 27, 2013