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Fangorn Crack

5.8+, Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
FA: Unk
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth > Middle Earth Left

Description

Hand/fist crack leads to steeper climbing on uneven blocks. Exit to the right towards anchors for Gandalf's (Grandpa's) dihedral. Crux is probably the hands/fist crack, which can be awkward to jam.

Location

Located in New Middle Earth, to the right of Feces Fetish and to the left of Gandalf's (Grandpa's) Dihedral.

Protection

Small - medium pro. Use bolt anchor on Gandalf's (Grandpa's) dihedral.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Straight on photo of Fanghorn
[Hide Photo] Straight on photo of Fanghorn

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chase Leoncini
San Diego, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I put some stainless Steel quicklinks on the anchor nearby (Grandpas' Dihedral). It's now much easier to get down not having to travel across the slippery edge toward Fools Gold or worse, needing to leave your gear. Go nuts. May 26, 2019
Cletus R
San Diego
[Hide Comment] At this time, the crack is well-coated with excrement. May 26, 2025