Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rob Mulligan & Troy Mayr, 1988
Page Views: 548 total · 6/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Apr 12, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The one bolt variation, direct start to Cactus Flower. Find the Cactus flower line, with the initial crack off to your left.

Start on a heavily chalked undercling horizontal before popping up into the slopey pinch. Work up in the pod to join the standard Cactus flower.

The guidebook says the grade is .12a-.12d, height dependant. Reaching the slopey pinch is going to suck if you are a shorty.

Location

10 feet to the right of the standard start of Cactus Flower.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8", 1/2" SS) . Supplemental gear possible for the top of the route which you probably won't need. maybe a 3 and a .75 camalot. Bolt anchor (1/2" SS).

Photos

Randy  
Did this many a year ago and found it near impossible (me being only 5'10" on a good day). Height dependent and in the higher 5.12 range for me. Apr 12, 2011
Mark J Gain  
 
Fun start to a cool route, but being a little more on the taller side I found it into the lower grades, of .12's and no gimmy even with some height as the book mentions. I would not know what I would confirm it as, of course it does not matter much anyways but a fun variation. Oct 27, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
I'm 5'8". No go. Would love to see someone my height do this climb so I can steal their beta! Dec 1, 2014
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
Did it onsite with Jim Bridwell on belay 1997. Dec 30, 2016
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
The protection bolt at the start has been replaced with a 1/2” SS bolt and SS hanger. Nov 28, 2017