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Routes in Grande Grotta

Aegialis S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aphrodite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
DNA S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elefantenhimmel (pt. 2) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun de Chichunne S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Happy Girlfriend S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ivi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kalypipe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Massalia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monahiki Elia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Priapos S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trela S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tufantastic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zawinul Syndicate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ruth & Kaspar Ochsner, Felix Meier
Page Views: 1,046 total · 12/month
Shared By: Braxtron on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

After the 5.5 'approach pitch' comes this gem. Incredibly fun tufa pulling on a gradually increasing angle to a no-hands rest between the wall and the elefant's trunk. Then it's a short, strenuous sequence to turn the roof and reach the anchor. Your reward for clipping the 'biners? A 20 meter (no joke) swing fit for a king!

Location [Suggest Change]

On the right-side of the cave. Runs up the black streak, where 'Elefantenhimmel' is painted on the rock, slightly trending left.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts, 4 point anchor with 1 permanent, SS carabiner.
Braxtron
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Braxtron   ...
 
Note: due to extreme seepage in/around the anchor, one of the carabiners (the aluminum one) has been nearly corroded-through (as of April 2011). I sacrificed one of my own as a temporary fix, but it will undoubtedly suffer the same fate. The only remedy seems to be another stainless steel carabiner. Apr 19, 2011
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
Wow! That sounds like an amazing route! What exactly do you mean by a 20 meter swing? Jun 10, 2011
Braxtron
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Braxtron   ...
 
If the route is cleaned (rope is only running through the anchor), one can TR up to a bolt or two past the first anchor and let go for a really big swing. 20 m is not much of an exaggeration, if at all. Apr 27, 2012
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO
Marginal route in my opinion. Do not clean by tramming in. Clean by TR only. Oct 7, 2012

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