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Routes in The Northern End
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Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Craig Luebben Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Green Jeans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zippin' Your Shin Skin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,096 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Winslow on Apr 11, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
This is an enjoyable route and is one of the least sustained routes at Trout Creek. This makes it a good warm-up, cool-down or first lead at Trout Creek. The left crack is quite small but eats gear and has excellent jams to help with your upward progress. The right crack is offwidth and offset such that it forms a great place to place your back while chimney climbing. The first 50-60 feet can be chimney climbed in this manner, placing pro in the smaller left crack (5.6-5.7). Leave the security of the chimney and transfer to the left crack to harder climbing with good rests up and left to a chain anchor (5.8).
Location
This climb is to the left of Shasta which is to the left of Lively Up Yourself. It can be easily identified as a chimney route with a small crack to the left and a larger offwidth crack to the right. The cracks are offset enough that a chimney is formed. This allows for stable stances most of the way up making it easy to place good pro.
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