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Routes in The Cluster

Gripped Up the Hole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Kevin Powell, Feb. 1977
Page Views: 206 total, 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Apr 10, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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6 Opinions

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Description

This climb involves novel and fun steep face moves, with significant runouts. A scary mantle (crux) near the bottom leads up to the first bolt. It's quite different from a standard JT slab climb, with medium to large holds on steep rock.

Location

An obvious route up the east face of the southern rock.

Protection

Two bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

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Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a R
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a R
Nice description of the opening moves, Richard. Jun 26, 2016
R rating for the start (crux), above the line is well-protected by the two bolts. Contrary to Chris' advice above, the crux is not protected by a medium cam, unless you want to stop halfway through the mantle move to place it. Press it out and clip the bolt. Fun, but mildly frightening. A novice version of "Surface Tension" over on Cyclops Rock. Jan 16, 2012
C Miller   CA  
The two bolts on the route have been replaced and are 3/8". A medium sized cam protects the scary moves to the first bolt.

As for the downclimb it was/is nasty but a simul-rap was the ticket to getting off this in the past. Apr 12, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
This climb has an anchor now;...has for about 10 years or so.....the down-climb was nasty, so someone put a bolted rap anchor on it..... Apr 11, 2011