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Routes in Varnished Wall

Circle of Benevolence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crank Queenie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Sucks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Meets West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mosaic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presence of Grace T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
With Malice and Forethought T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Anderson and Jim Boone, October 1978.
Page Views: 344 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Apr 10, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is a face route on good rock. Climb up past a bolt and continue to the top, using gear for protection.


This route starts at the base of Double Crux, but goes straight up.


one bolt and a few pieces of gear


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Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Start to the left of Crank Queenie where the obvious broken left arching crack and flake system takes off. If you look up on the dark face you will see a bolt about 15ft up. Grab good flakes on the right edge of this dark face and head on up. A few nuts or small cams will fit nicely above. Sling anchor shared with Disco Sucks. Rap from there. Oct 26, 2012