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The Conch
V8,
Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
FA: Andy Patterson???
California
> Central Coast
> Santa Barbara
> Santa Barbara…
> Lizard's Mouth
> Femme Fatale Area
Description
A techie slab to the left of Lord of the Flies. Perform a series of off-balance moves up and right to a bizarre, high-tension lunge to a flat edge at the top of LOTF.
Location
There are a number of starts, none of which are easy. Without giving too much away, begin about five feet to the left of LOTF, use some slopers to gain a stance, then proceed up and right. Note: there is a shallow "dish" at the very top end of the boulder that looks like it would be the finish hold. It isn't.
Protection
Lots of pads. The crux is quite high.
Irvine
I ended up selecting a compression start using a left hand sloper in a water runnel, and a right hand crimp. I pretty much started directly above the two huecos at shin height. After about an hour, I figured out a method that involved some full extension moves, as well as a double gaston. I rested, got psyched, and took it to the top.
Now that I have seen the picture, I realize that Andy likely started about 4 feet left of where I did, and his crux was completely different from mine.
Long story short: I think I did a different boulder problem. But it certainly didn't matter while I was going at it. I took some ambiguous beta, and found a route that fit. That was the most fun I've had outside in weeks. Jan 9, 2013
Carpinteria, CA
Nice work, Sean. Great face, with lots of subtle solutions. I started exactly as you did, moved slightly up left and then I moved up and right (crux). See where my left hand is in the picture? That's where I got my feet set up, then executed the move up and right to the big "ledge" on LOTF. That was the crux. It sounds like you took more of a direct approach. We tried both ways, and thought my way was fun, since you do this crazy barn-door move.
Totally rad boulder. Glad you had fun! Jan 10, 2013