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Routes in Femme Fatale Area

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Andy Patterson???
Page Views: 1,411 total, 17/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Apr 10, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

A techie slab to the left of Lord of the Flies. Perform a series of off-balance moves up and right to a bizarre, high-tension lunge to a flat edge at the top of LOTF.

Location

There are a number of starts, none of which are easy. Without giving too much away, begin about five feet to the left of LOTF, use some slopers to gain a stance, then proceed up and right. Note: there is a shallow "dish" at the very top end of the boulder that looks like it would be the finish hold. It isn't.

Protection

Lots of pads. The crux is quite high.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Ha!

Nice work, Sean. Great face, with lots of subtle solutions. I started exactly as you did, moved slightly up left and then I moved up and right (crux). See where my left hand is in the picture? That's where I got my feet set up, then executed the move up and right to the big "ledge" on LOTF. That was the crux. It sounds like you took more of a direct approach. We tried both ways, and thought my way was fun, since you do this crazy barn-door move.

Totally rad boulder. Glad you had fun! Jan 10, 2013
Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
I went to the mouth today, for the first time in years, with intent of doing this particular problem. I saw the picture and was inspired. However, once I got to the base, I completely forgot what the picture showed Andy doing, so I set about figuring how to get to the shelf starting a few feet left of LOTF.
I ended up selecting a compression start using a left hand sloper in a water runnel, and a right hand crimp. I pretty much started directly above the two huecos at shin height. After about an hour, I figured out a method that involved some full extension moves, as well as a double gaston. I rested, got psyched, and took it to the top.
Now that I have seen the picture, I realize that Andy likely started about 4 feet left of where I did, and his crux was completely different from mine.
Long story short: I think I did a different boulder problem. But it certainly didn't matter while I was going at it. I took some ambiguous beta, and found a route that fit. That was the most fun I've had outside in weeks. Jan 9, 2013