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Routes in Tyrolean Tower

"The Gap" T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lone Pine Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Way Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
No Way Down Direct AKA "Tyrolean Tower" T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 37 total · 0/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Apr 9, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Wow. Best way to the top of the tower. Easy to the north platform but from there unprotected climbing up the face, slightly left, and to the top. Unnamed route #3 in Sven's guidebook.


Start at the low point of the tower and follow the crack to the overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the north platform.

To get down lower your partner to the north platform and using them as an anchor rap off the opposite side. There's a piton with quick link on it to keep the rope from sliding off.


Trad. Only a pink and white tri-cam allow you to protect the moves off the north platform. They won't keep you from hitting the platform but they will keep you from falling all the way off. Small wires are needed for a top anchor.


A direct finish is listed as "Tyrolean Tower" in Sven's guidebook at 5.10d. As far as I can tell go straight up through the over-hang. Apr 9, 2011