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Routes in Royal Arches Boulder Cracks

Bad Ass Momma T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Space Invaders T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,594 total, 20/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is like a narrower and harder (much harder!) version of Generator Crack. It starts off fists and then gets wide. I think the crux is near the start, before you can get a knee in, but it's pretty steep and physical the whole way.

Follow the Horse Trail past the Indian Caves until you start coming around to the east side of Washington Column. Bad Ass Momma is located on a huge boulder to the left of the trail. You can't see it from the trail and it's sort of difficult to describe where to turn off. Scramble up to the right to set up a toprope. The anchor takes 3-4" gear. You'll want gear up to at least 4.5" to lead it.

There's also a spectacular looking sport climb (5.hard!) on the same boulder around the corner to the right.

Protection

pro to 5"

Photos

Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
it oriented to south and has some morning shade until noon.
Good video how to
fishproducts.com/movies/bad…

The other way is calf lock/ hands stuck Sep 3, 2013
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Alternate approach beta: Take the bike path from the Village east towards Mirror Lake. At the bathroom, jump on the rim trail that is right behind the bathroom. No more than 2-3 minutes later you will see a HUGE (house-sized) boulder on your left-hand side (north of the trail) with a small slab below it. Head up this, trending uphill and right, approximately 100 feet. Bad Ass Momma faces the trail, but it's hard to see from below. Jun 3, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Bad Ass Momma is recounted in the article "Levitation: The Off-Width Renaissance" by Randy Leavitt. The article is posted here:
widefetish.com/pages/how_to…
and here:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Apr 8, 2011