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Routes in Courthouse Formation

In Contempt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unforgiven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Dave Evans, March 1996
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: Murf on Apr 6, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This short and powerful route is another that would have a conga line if it were in Real Hidden Valley. Technical, powerful, and truly sport bolted at the difficult sections, In Contempt would be a great project for those tackling the hard 11's at Josh. That is, if you had ever heard of it.

The documented grade(s) of 11b and 11b/c in some guides shows that even in the late 90's, Josh could continue to demand respect.


This is on right hand side of the formation, climbing into an overhung corner. Easy moves lead to a traverse past a piece or two until the first bolt can be clipped. Technical and sometimes baffling sequences punch through a short, well-protected corner to the chains.


A couple of finger/finger plus sized cams (yellow tcu/alien and a .5 BD worked for us), 4 bolts and a chain anchor.


- No Photos -
Thanks for that info! I actually did go and check out those little rigs in prep for the book. The information that I had at the time was a bit confusing, I must have gotten the names of the two routes switched up.

(wait, are you making a play on words?) Nov 30, 2012
Note: Misidentified in Robert Miramontes' guide.

This route is on the right (as Murf states, it is the overhanging corner system). Unforgiven lies to the left and around the corner on an overhanging face.

It is pretty obvious once your there. Sep 5, 2011