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Routes in Overview & Waterfall

Awakening S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blaupunkt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cold Ass Honkies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dodgy Vixen, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hair Nation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sportklettern S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Totally High Maintenance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Variation to Hysteria S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: T. Kuss
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tim Kuss on Apr 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Like the dodgy vixen we all know, this leads you to believe that it's going to be easy and sweet. Then it starts getting kind of gnarly and then really friken' difficult. Start by liebacking the gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. Hop on the rock clipping bolts across the slab and up the corner/arete (use a long sling on the fourth bolt). Traverse the ledge right, to the obvious bolt line, (long slings on fifth and eighth bolts) through soft huecos and a big overhang and headwall.

Location

50 feet left of the waterfall, look for the big gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. This shares the start (first four bolts) with Hysteria and Totally High Maintenance.

Protection

Twelve bolts. Bring three long slings for the fourth, fifth, and eighth bolts to reduce rope drag. There are fixed anchor with biners for lowering. There are security cameras afixed on the anchor to catch biner thieves (slow death penalty). If you take biners 'cause they're worn out, leave your own then.

Photos

Christopher Barlow  
  5.12a
Big huecos to crankin' on epoxied crimps over a bulge sounds about right. If one is standing at the tree that begins the routes (identified by a bolt near the tree), this is the line that climbs the tree then goes furthest right. Really cool climbing if one ignores the hollowness of the big huecos. Mar 26, 2012
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.12a
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.12a
Is this the route that pulls hueco jugs to a steep roof surmounted by crankin' on some epoxied crimps? Mar 25, 2012
Hiya Tim-
Is this the route that I think it is, with a pretty obvious, softball-sized pocket if you start on the tree? There is (or was, soft rock) a V8/9 boulder problem into what I think this route is, going up a short, left-facing sort of dihedral, though I topped out (R) to the right. Fixed pin at the lip of the cave?
Best to y'all down there, miss it. Mar 8, 2012