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Routes in Turd World Country

Cactus Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Howdy Ho! (The Turd) T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sodom and America T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Pon, Mills
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: JFM on Apr 5, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

An overhanging face after an easy hop-up off the deck leads to a right-slanting crack with lieback potential; a sharp crystal chunk marks the end of the cruxy bit. Pull up and over, move left, and finish on licheny jugs.

Location

This is the leftmost route at TWC. It is an easy scramble up from the left to set an anchor.

Protection

3 bolts (green), 1 piton (formerly 2), and 2 anchor-bolts. Bring long slings for TR. Some small cams / TCUs would be nice. The 1st bolt is pretty high up, but easy climbing leads to it.

Photos

JFM
 
JFM  
 
The lower piton popped out while we were climbing this one today. I don't know how to place pitons & I don't own any, so I couldn't replace it. If someone wants to fix it up, that would be awesome. Otherwise, bring some small slcds. Apr 5, 2011

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