PRINT: Rock Climb Frictiony Face Panty Waist, Red Rocks

Frictiony Face Panty Waist

5.9, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 97 votes
FA: Danny Meyers, Brad Stewart 1989
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (05) Sandstone… > Parking Lot Area > Running Man Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Friction Face is a sustained and exciting slab climb. There are multiple difficult sections with very few positive holds to rest on. The bolts are well spaced to make this a spicy, but safe lead. This climb faces south and requires a good amount of friction, so save it for those cooler days.

From a nice belay ledge, climb straight up clipping a bolt and begin to trend up and left. Clip a few more bolts and head straight up through a varnished section of rock. Some of the varnish is questionable, so use caution. Pull over a ledge and your at the anchors.

Note, there is another set of anchors to the left in a right facing corner, this is for another climb. You should climb straight up after the last bolt. It also seems that this climb may have "sprouted" a retro bolt.

Location

If you are heading up towards the Running Man wall, you take the 3rd/4th scramble up the slabs, this is directly above that approach. When you top out the stemming move from the scramble and reach the Running Man platform, bee line straight up to the face. You will notice a short un-aesthic right facing dihedral just to the left of this climb and bolts on a red face. This is about 50yds to climbers left of the climb Running Man. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Protection

All bolts. Handren book suggests 6 bolts, but there are definitely 7. Fixed rap anchors on top of a sloping ledge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mantling up thru the mid-section, feels thin but the angle is super low

Looking up at "Frictiony Face Panty Waist".

Panty waist, about here your looking for a rest

Friction Face Panty Waist

Mary using her friction skills.

Mary showing that this face requires some good footwork.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cunning Linguist

The first bolt is a retrobolt, skip it for some historical perspective. Nov 2, 2011

Tim Shea
Fort Lauderdale, FL

Another great slab climb. No rests on this one it's sustained. But nicely bolted. I think this climb, ultraman, head case, white slab and lotta balls offer a great education in slab climbing in the 5.8 range in RR. Nov 22, 2012

Tom Lausch
Madison WI

5.8+

One of the best slab climbs in RR. Sustained hut doable for the grade. Either the closer anchor or the higher up one. The route is the same. Must do. Apr 28, 2013

skelldify

5.10a

Felt pretty friggin' sandbagged at 5.8+. We spent 4 days at Red Rocks and climbed routes from 5.8 to 5.12, and this one was harder than anything up to 10-. Somewhat run-out with a few of the hangers being spinners made it spicy, too. True friction slab climbing. First route we did at Red Rocks. Nov 24, 2014

Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, NV

Great sustained slab climb on delicate feet and small crimps and slopes. Remember to follow a seam up and left after the 2nd bolt. took a nice whip trying to climb up directly under the 3rd bolt, which leaves you in a thin spot Jan 1, 2015

Rico Tan

5.10-

Maybe because I was wearing tight downturned painful shoes... this route somehow felt harder than the 10c slab at Panty wall , and also more heady. YMMV. Dec 28, 2016

Flix Or What

5.9-

Excelent slab. When reading all the comments concearning the grade, keep in mind that slab climbing can feel incredibly hard or outright impossible if you are not used to the rock. But that doesn't make the climb actually BE hard. Nov 22, 2022