Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Danny Meyers, Brad Stewart 1989
Page Views: 5,840 total · 58/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 4, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Friction Face is a sustained and exciting slab climb. There are multiple difficult sections with very few positive holds to rest on. The bolts are well spaced to make this a spicy, but safe lead. This climb faces south and requires a good amount of friction, so save it for those cooler days.

From a nice belay ledge, climb straight up clipping a bolt and begin to trend up and left. Clip a few more bolts and head straight up through a varnished section of rock. Some of the varnish is questionable, so use caution. Pull over a ledge and your at the anchors.

Note, there is another set of anchors to the left in a right facing corner, this is for another climb. You should climb straight up after the last bolt. It also seems that this climb may have "sprouted" a retro bolt.

Location

If you are heading up towards the Running Man wall, you take the 3rd/4th scramble up the slabs, this is directly above that approach. When you top out the stemming move from the scramble and reach the Running Man platform, bee line straight up to the face. You will notice a short un-aesthic right facing dihedral just to the left of this climb and bolts on a red face. This is about 50yds to climbers left of the climb Running Man. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Protection

All bolts. Handren book suggests 6 bolts, but there are definitely 7. Fixed rap anchors on top of a sloping ledge.

Photos