Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in The Wedge
|Mica Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jeremy Bauman and Casey Eales|
|Page Views:||689 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Jeremy Bauman on Apr 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionStart climbing up the pinches to the offwidth (crux) that takes a good #6 or sketchy #5 camelot. Continue climbing to a ledge with a small roof above with a good .4 placement. Pull around the roof (crux) and continue up face climbing on beautiful granite until you reach a small roof under a yellow over-haning bit of rock. Traverse left to a large roof and belay. Climb up and right slinging a rock horn off the belay. Climb up and right towards the two small trees over a lot of loose terrain. Angle back left to a short headwall. Start climbing the scary headwall (crux) and traverse right to a good side pull. Continue up and right to the top.
Descent: See Wedge description. Or, you could probably do a double rappel from the tree just above and left of the pitch 1 belay. This may be the recommended option as pitch 2 is very loose, runout, and the headwall has some committing moves before pro is available. Note* we have NOT tried this rappel yet and it is unconfirmed whether or not the ropes will touch the ground. Tie knots in your rope!