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Routes in The Wedge

Mica Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeremy Bauman and Casey Eales
Page Views: 736 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jeremy Bauman on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Description [Suggest Change]

Start climbing up the pinches to the offwidth (crux) that takes a good #6 or sketchy #5 camelot. Continue climbing to a ledge with a small roof above with a good .4 placement. Pull around the roof (crux) and continue up face climbing on beautiful granite until you reach a small roof under a yellow over-haning bit of rock. Traverse left to a large roof and belay. Climb up and right slinging a rock horn off the belay. Climb up and right towards the two small trees over a lot of loose terrain. Angle back left to a short headwall. Start climbing the scary headwall (crux) and traverse right to a good side pull. Continue up and right to the top.

Descent: See Wedge description. Or, you could probably do a double rappel from the tree just above and left of the pitch 1 belay. This may be the recommended option as pitch 2 is very loose, runout, and the headwall has some committing moves before pro is available. Note* we have NOT tried this rappel yet and it is unconfirmed whether or not the ropes will touch the ground. Tie knots in your rope!

Location [Suggest Change]

After reaching the base of the Wedge, hike around its left side and locate the cairn at the base of Mica Folly (see start photo).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams 0- #5 or #6, nuts, slings (for rock horns). There isn't much pro on the route, but the cruxes are well protected and the gear is solid.

Photos

CaseyE Eales
  5.8+ PG13
CaseyE Eales  
  5.8+ PG13
I recommend rapping after the first pitch(note still untested) the second pitch is very loose and it seems more like 4th class scrambling until you get to the small headwall. With a 20-30 minute walk off just rappel. Apr 13, 2011

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